Opening doors for designers
Susie Buttons, the designer behind Buttons, a retro-maximalist womenswear brand inspired by fantasy and fairy tales, has shown her designs all over the world, including New York and London.
“But Philly Fashion Week is the best,” she said. “Everybody involved loves what they do and they are just so helpful and kind.”
Susie Buttons, designer behind Buttons, with her collection inspired by ”Alice in Wonderland” (Rana Rastegari/WHYY)
This year, her collection was inspired by “Alice in Wonderland,” with a hint of old Hollywood glamour. As an experienced costume designer and technician, she is used to creating within a set of rules, but designing her own collections to display at Philly Fashion Week offered her more freedom.
“In costume design and production, … you’re confined by a script, time period or what the director wants. This is more whatever I want to do,” she said.
Despite being a relatively small, regional event, Philly Fashion Week has opened doors for designers to showcase their work in New York and London and on “Project Runway.” Designers Kristina Kharlashkina and Prajjé Oscar returned to the runway in Philly to show their new collections, after appearing on the renowned reality competition show’s 19th season. For both of them, Philly Fashion Week represents a different direction for the industry.
“It’s always nice to get out of New York and see different countries or cities or cultures. Philly Fashion Week is a very strong community, and they really support each other,” Kharlashkina said. “In New York, you’re like a fish out of water, and here, I feel a really [deep] connection between people.”
Couture collection by Kristina Kharlashkina, featuring floral motifs and a resin body piece (Rana Rastegari/WHYY)
Oscar’s continuous return to Philly Fashion Week is a sensation for many attendees.
“I see the opportunity it gives to the other designers, and I’m glad that I’m able to contribute to that,” Oscar said.
Jennifer Lynn Robinson and Nina Cueva-Castillo, both influencers who attended Philly Fashion Week, have followed Oscar’s career closely. “I was a total fangirl when he was on “Project Runway,” and now I can call him a personal friend,” Cueva-Castillo said.
Prajjé Oscar and the closing look of his collection (Rana Rastegari/WHYY)
Community support seems to be the foundation for Philly Fashion Week’s 20 years of operation. Scott and Parker have essentially founded a hub for designers, models, stylists and producers to gain access to the often-shielded fashion industry without financial sacrifice. Attendees are able to interact closely with designers, requesting custom pieces and buying their newest collections from Maison, a storefront Scott and Parker launched in the Fashion District. Having access to Maison alleviates the financial burden of purchasing stores and showrooms, especially for emerging designers.
Steve Akins, of Paragon Charisma, handcrafts each of his designs. For many designers, the costs of fabric, studio spaces and mannequins are a severe limitation. But as Akins notes, at Philly Fashion Week, “They give everybody every opportunity. They tell us about every chance for grants, for fashion shows, to get us into stores, to get us on celebrity placements. It’s so rich. It’s so valuable to have them.”
Beyond opening opportunities for designers, Philly Fashion Week is a chance for creatives and artists to get involved in the industry. Taking on interns and volunteers every season, the event offers access to first-hand experience. For J’lyn E. Martin, a stylist and the show’s producer, Philly Fashion Week created a learning environment where he could work his way up the ranks.
J’lyn E. Martin takes a bow at the culmination of February’s Philly Fashion Week. (Rana Rastegari/WHYY)
“I started as a volunteer. There was a lot to do and each season, I ended up doing more and more. I was [also able to] put my creative ideas and background into what we’re presenting in Philly,” Martin said. “There are people that want to be stylists or producers and they don’t have a foot in the door. I put my toe in there and they pulled my whole foot, leg and arm in, and now I’m producing the shows.”