All photos courtesy of Sarah Necia.
Sarah Necia wants to let skeptics in on a little secret: “Everyone wears fucking wigs.” Once you realize it, you’ll notice them everywhere. Though she was once thought to be too unorthodox to ever make it in the industry, the hair stylist to the stars and wig extraordinaire has now amassed an A-list clientele that includes Beyoncé, Dolly Parton, and Dita Von Teese. By blending her love of the 60s and 70s with a futuristic Star Trek-like quality, she toes the line between nostalgia and innovation. Take one look at Necia’s colorful, grandiose and meticulously constructed wigs and her hair philosophy becomes clear: More is more. While on a Zoom call, she took us through her career trajectory from styling dementia patients to receiving the Beyoncé stamp of approval. But before hanging up, she gave us the skinny on lace fronts, wig glues, and her most hated hair-dos.
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ARY RUSSELL: I’m so excited to speak to you. I’ve been a fan of yours for so long.
SARAH NECIA: Oh, god. You’re making me blush. I’m really honored and I’m really nervous.
RUSSELL: Don’t be nervous. How did you get started with making wigs?
NECIA: So it’s kind of a crazy story, because I did my hairdressing [course] when I was 16 and I couldn’t get a job. I know this sounds a bit crazy, but I ended up working in a hospital with dementia patients, end-of-life care, and I used to do their hair. My creativity never went away, but working with dying people puts your life in perspective.
RUSSELL: I’m sure.
NECIA: Then I was doing hair classes and one of my drag friends in New York was like, “Would you make me a wig?” and I ended up teaching myself. So I’d do a 12-hour shift with dementia patients and then I’d come home and I’d be on my blockhead. It was a proper creative process, speaking to people about what they’ve done with their life and they’re giving me the oomph.
RUSSELL: What were the challenges that you faced given that you’re self-taught?
NECIA: I mean, lots of trial and error. I remember the first time I was kind of like, “I’m just going to do this synthetic wig how I would set my own hair.” I was using foam rollers. I remember trying to steam it and I was like, “It’s just not coming out right. It’s wet.” And synthetic hair is really hard.
RUSSELL: Yeah, it’s plastic.
NECIA: You can’t just use tongs or anything like that. So honestly, it was trial and error until I found my own way of doing things. I always say I’m still always learning different techniques.
RUSSELL: You mentioned that you entered the industry around 16. What’s it like going into that world but carving out this really unique lane for yourself with these grand, unconventional wigs?
NECIA: When I went into this hair school, personally, I felt like I didn’t fit in. I couldn’t get a job. I kept getting told that my stuff that I was doing was a bit out there and it was kind of dampening my spirit. And I was like, “What do you mean it’s out there? Or it’s not correct to what’s in the curriculum?” It was perming and stuff like that, which is great, but I wanted to go down a different route. It never actually stopped me creating my own hair. I’m independent. I’m kind of trying my best to carve this narrative that I was told that I was never going to be a hairdresser sort of thing, and I’m trying to break that down for people that are at hair school now.
RUSSELL: You want to let people know that you don’t have to go the traditional path.
NECIA: Exactly.
RUSSELL: Can you walk me through your wig sculpting process?
NECIA: I know that it’s not everyone’s way of doing it, but it’s in my head so I am doing it as I go. Basically, I’ll have a blockhead, then I’ll get my wig. I’ll decide what color I want and then I’ll cut it into the shape that I’m doing. Then I’ll set it and wait for it to dry. Most of the stuff that comes out of my head, it’s as I go. I’ll have something loose like, “Oh, I’ve seen something in a ’70s film recently that I want to kind of grab.” I’m inspired by so many things so I’m kind of grabbing little bits.
RUSSELL: How long does it take?
NECIA: It depends on how many times I’ve done it. If it’s like a pageboy, I know that shape pretty well. I can do a pageboy in, I don’t know, maybe three hours. But if it’s super sculpting, it can go on for a couple of days if it’s not 100% right because I’m a perfectionist. The same as in-person hair as well. I always say to my clients, “Can I have as much time as possible because… ” [Laughs]
RUSSELL: You were talking about seeing certain films and getting inspired. What movies or characters have inspired your favorite styles?
NECIA: It always changes. At the moment, even with my own hair, I’m going for a ’70s, Sweet Charity thing. That film is fucking incredible and the hair references are amazing. But I’ll do it all. I get obsessed with anything. I remember when This Is England came out, and I’m from Derby. At the moment, it’s Wuthering Heights.
RUSSELL: Oh, I saw an early screening. The hairstyles, you’re going to love it. You’re going to gag.
NECIA: I know.
RUSSELL: I always got this sort of retro-futurism vibe from your work. Obviously, I noticed the vintage aesthetic of the hair, but there also seemed to be such a sci-fi aspect. You incorporate this mix of not feeling fully vintage. It still feels really innovative.
NECIA: I really appreciate that, because that’s something I really try hard [to do]. I always say classic hair has been around for a really long time and it’s a great fucking base for things. I try my best to have an inspiration like that, but I’m always making it on my own, kind of giving it a fashion spin. When I say I get obsessed with things, I’ll go in little pockets where I’m like, “Oh, I’m really into this at the moment,” like Heated Rivalry. Holy crap.
RUSSELL: You’re going to do an Ilya wig.
NECIA: The curls!
RUSSELL: I love wearing wigs. I’m wearing a wig right now, my crappy everyday wig. But I’m really into the technical stuff. So I’m going to start asking you some technical questions.
NECIA: Ask me.
RUSSELL: Obviously, these wigs are being used either for long photo shoots or even intense touring. When you do have the option to install the wig yourself, what glue are you using to glue it?
NECIA: I have to be honest. Most of the time, it’s tape.
RUSSELL: Oh, really?
NECIA: Yeah. Honestly, for shoots and stuff, it’s tape. Even on stage because I just helped out Dita Von Teese on her Nocturnal Tour in the UK and we were doing her wig and she was like, “Tape is the best for me.” So it depends on the person. I literally carry a kit of everything.
RUSSELL: That’s so interesting. I’m so used to the Got2b glue that you have to fan.
NECIA: Yeah, where you do the hair dryer. It depends on how long you’re keeping it on for. That is frickin’ amazing for longevity. But most of the time, it’s on the client. I’m like, “What do you want?” or sometimes they’ll bring their own glue and we’ll do it that way.
RUSSELL: And what technique are you using to get the client’s hair under the wig? Are you braiding it down or are you just wrapping it and then putting the cap on?
NECIA: Again, it depends on how much hair the client has, but most of the time it’s a braid, or then a wig wrap. We’ll put the cap on top, use the wide-tooth pins to really make it as flat as possible.
RUSSELL: Are you using a spray to melt the lace when you’re installing it?
NECIA: Most of the time, I’ve pre-plucked their hairline and then I try to use good lace so I don’t have to fanny about with everything on a shoot, especially when you’re on a shoot and you’ve got 15 minutes.
RUSSELL: You mentioned the lace. What kind are you using?
NECIA: HD and Swiss are probably my favorite. But again, I’ll use everything that I can get ahold of because sometimes I really do have to be like, “Oh, crap. I need something for tomorrow.”
RUSSELL: What kind of hair are you using? Are you mainly using synthetic, human, blends?
NECIA: I use a mix, but I have to say I love synthetic only because it’s so versatile and it fucking stays. Don’t get me wrong, human is gorgeous. But for something super-styled, you kind of have to keep styling it like it’s your own hair. With heat and underlights stuff, I’d rather use synthetic.
RUSSELL: It’s so interesting because they make really high quality synthetic wigs now. It’s no longer a shake-and-go type of thing. The hairline—
NECIA: It’s gotten so good.
RUSSELL: And it’s so convenient when it’s already styled. While human hair is beautiful, it succumbs to the weather conditions. So if it’s humid out, you would’ve spent three hours doing the perfect curl just to step right out and have it go poof.
NECIA: There’s pros and cons to both, but for me synthetic is just the one. Especially now, like you say, you can get some amazing wigs. Even the part on some of them, you can get them going so far back now. Everyone wears wigs.
RUSSELL: What’s your methodology for creating certain curls?
NECIA: Most of the synthetic wigs are just coming straight and then I’ll cut, set them, shape them. But when it comes to sculpting, I will particularly try and get the shape I want using hairspray or whatever and my tail combs, but also I’ll use a bit of heat if I can. I’ll blow out bangs and stuff and use a round brush. But it’s just about the heat settings.
RUSSELL: You’re not using a flat iron or a curling iron on it, are you?
NECIA: Sometimes I can use a curling tong on a really, really low heat for bangs. But then at the same time, as soon as it’s too high, it’s just going to melt the hair. So I’ve just resorted to using my hair dryer because I get more of a natural finish with that as well, instead of just a stiff edge.
RUSSELL: What are your holy grail hairsprays?
NECIA: So at the moment, on real people, it’s Texas Hold ‘Em, Color Wow. I’m kind of obsessed with the Style on Steroids, especially when I’m working on their own hair and trying to get that volume. But on wigs, it’s got to be Got2b Glued. I mean, it’s ridiculous, isn’t it? But also, I’ll mix it up with Schwarzkopf OSiS, especially on black hair because you don’t want white flecks of hairspray.
RUSSELL: Okay. And how and where do you store your wigs? Do you have a vault that you keep them in? [Laughs]
NECIA: I don’t actually have any backlog. People think I’ve got a cupboard of wigs but I’m like, “No, I ain’t got no time.” I just finished 37 wigs for Dollywood, the stage show, and I do that every Christmas on their break, which is amazing. I’m very honored. I’m doing this and then giving it to my husband to pack up and we’re sending them to Dollywood. So I’ve got a studio here and then I’ve got a studio in London as well that I share with two creatives that own a millinery company. We call ourselves the “Neck Up Team.”
RUSSELL: And you mentioned Dollywood. I wanted to talk to you about how that came about.
NECIA: So it’s pretty wild, to be honest. Her niece, Rebecca Seaver, she is head of Dolly’s Archive and she reached out in 2020. I’m going to be honest. I ignored the email because I thought it was fake.
RUSSELL: You thought it was a scam?
NECIA: Yeah. It was COVID, she does burlesque and she was like, “I’m doing a performance with my Aunt Dolly on The Graham Norton Show and I’d love you to do my hair.” And I was like, “Oh, shit. Okay, sorry. I’ve ignored this message.” I ended up doing her hair for The Graham Norton Show and then Dolly liked Rebecca’s hair and it kind of started from there.
RUSSELL: Wow.
NECIA: So I was doing these things and then Rebecca was like, “I’d love you to do some wigs for the Rockstar album.” I just thought nothing of it. You work with people that I’m honored to work with, but sometimes they don’t end up wearing it. Anyway, Rebecca FaceTimed me on the shoot because it was my birthday and Dolly’s wearing the wig.
RUSSELL: Oh my god.
NECIA: I was like, “Hi. You look amazing.” And she was like, “Well, sure I do.”
RUSSELL: Perfect birthday present.
NECIA: I know. And because Rebecca does the archive, she was like, “Would you recreate Dolly’s looks from the years, all of her eras?” So I ended up doing stuff for the museum so you can go to Dollywood and see them in the museum. It’s mental, really.
RUSSELL: And how did Beyoncé come about?
NECIA: Beyoncé was another one which I’m like, “What?” I got an email from Michael Handler saying, “Can you get in touch with me?” He was her assistant at the time. And I was like, “Who is this?” And then I spoke to him on the phone and he was like, “Well, Beyoncé loves your work. Would you do this?” I just got back from Dollywood and I was like, “What the fuck is happening?” Michael was amazing and I’m just honored to have done so many looks for the tour book and the visuals.
RUSSELL: How are you packing them to maintain the shape?
NECIA: It’s a lot, especially with Dolly and Beyoncé. So we sent them on heads and then we put them in one box and then I was like, “No, they’re not safe enough. It’s going to Beyoncé.” So we ended up putting a box in a box with peanuts. And then I got a message saying, “They’re here and Ms. Knowles-Carter is obsessed,” and she had them all lined up. It’s fucking nuts.
RUSSELL: Not many people can say that. How do you feel about the changing conversation surrounding wigs? Or do you still think they’re considered taboo?
NECIA: It’s a mixture still. I’ve definitely seen people that won’t say they’re wearing a wig and then I’ve seen people that are quite happy to say they’re wearing a wig. And I’m falling to the side where I’m like, “Everyone wears fucking wigs. Who cares?”
RUSSELL: Everyone wears extensions. Everyone wears hairpieces, wigs.
NECIA: All creativity with hair should be celebrated. Do you know what I mean? And especially when there’s a lot of great wig stores that do proper human hair and will do it to the color match and everything like that. Those people should get more shouts.
RUSSELL: Are there any wig or hair trends that you hate? Or any you’re absolutely obsessed with?
NECIA: What I’m into basically is ’70s hair at the moment. I don’t think it can go anywhere. It’s timeless, I’m just kind of right in my big hair era. But hair trends that I don’t like are if anyone asks me for victory rolls. I fucking hate doing them. I’m sorry.
RUSSELL: Now if Beyoncé’s like, “Girl, I need some victory rolls…”
NECIA: Oh my god. Obviously, I would.
