Similarly, Athens-based Lito is inspired by myths and legends – in this case, tales from ancient Greece. But forget Medusa’s terrifying and deadly hair. The jeweller’s creations are sensual and sinuous: thin, textured gold chokers and rings that come to life when worn; and for her, the creature carries an age-old energy and power that she hopes wearers of her work can tap into. ‘Power whispers as often as it roars,’ she observes, ‘and the snake is its perfect symbol: alluring, untamed and, like the women who wear my pieces, both soft and unbreakable.’
Over at Boodles, head of design Rebecca Hawkins had a different motivation for including them in its latest high jewellery collection, called A Family Journey: Around Africa in 10 Days. As she explains, ‘In paying homage to Africa, and all the exceptional gems and Single Mine Origin gold we receive from there, we wanted to include different animals from across the continent. And not only do snakes lend themselves so well to jewellery, they’re also such confident motifs.’ There are a number in the collection, among them a ring centred on a breathtaking black opal around and across which a slithering tsavorite- and diamond-set serpent wraps itself to bite its own tail.
‘Don’t forget the serpent!’ proclaimed legendary Vogue editor-in-chief Diana Vreeland in a memo to staff in 1968. It ‘should be on every finger and on all wrists and everywhere’. No doubt the style maven had a particular piece in mind when she wrote that: her very own precious Bvlgari Serpenti belt, with emerald eyes and scales of white and pink enamel. She often wore this precious accessory wrapped twice around her neck, its magnificence a declaration of her own forceful femininity. And so the jewelled snake remains: forever charming.
This feature was first published in the Tatler Watches & Jewellery Guide, on sale now with the December issue.
All that glitters: Dazzling in a necklace, earrings, brooch and rings by Tiffany & Co.
Luc Braquet