A chef whose Michelin two-star restaurant in Wales was given a one-star hygiene rating has claimed the inspection regime is “prehistoric” as it emerged officers raised concerns about dead flies and the potential for cross-contamination.
Gareth Ward said the inspectors did not understand what he and his colleagues were trying to do at Ynyshir, a restaurant with rooms near Machynlleth.
He said: “They’re prehistoric, these guys. They’ve actually admitted to me, to my face, they don’t understand my restaurant. They’ve judged me before they’ve understood. Instead of trying to understand it, they’ve just slapped a one [star] on it.”
Speaking on Instagram, a clearly emotional Ward said: “I haven’t had a meltdown. I am going to fight. I am going to protect what’s mine. I’m not going to roll over and die.”
The one-star hygiene rating made headlines last month and the inspection report emerged after a freedom of information request to Ceredigion county council.
According to the report, there was an “accumulation of dead flies” on a flypaper sticky strip in a prep room and flies in another part of the premises. The report said: “Flies pose a significant food safety risk.”
A knife used for shaving beef was described as “dirty” and concerns were flagged up about potential cross-contamination between ready-to-eat raw minced beef and other raw meat. “Reorganise your fridge storage arrangements to ensure that adequate separation between raw and ready-to-eat food is achieved,” the report said.
It went on to say lobster meat was being served raw. “Significant risks associated with the service of raw lobsters, specifically microbiological hazards, have not been fully identified and/or controlled.”
The report continued: “You should cease serving raw lobster immediately or further enforcement action in line with the council’s enforcement policy may be considered.”
Inspectors also raised the issue of handwashing: “It is noted that … raw and ready-to-eat foods are being handled in numerous areas that do not have an accessible wash hand basin.”
In his Instagram post, Ward said he regretted not appealing against the rating and he accused the media of lazy reporting.
He said: “We absolutely love hospitality and creating something very special for the world to come and see and enjoy. We want people to come here and let their hair down and forget about the bullshit in the world for 24 hours and just have a fucking good time.”
In a second emotional post, he thanked everyone who had supported him. “It’s been four weeks of fucking shit,” he said.
Ynyshir says its “30-course tasting experience” is built on “world-class ingredients, precision, and advanced culinary techniques”. It says: “Our approach is intentionally non-conventional and has played a key role in placing Wales on the international culinary map.”
In a statement, it said that for several years it had faced “persistent challenges” with Ceredigion county council’s environmental health department, “primarily relating to documentation and a lack of understanding of our specialised procedures”.
It said: “The inspection identified a small number of minor issues typical of a busy professional kitchen situated in the countryside of rural Wales. These were rectified immediately and in full.”
The statement said there were “areas where the inspection report is factually incorrect”. On the “dirty” knife, it said it had just been sharpened and was seen “part way through the cleaning process”. The restaurant added: “All action points have now been completed, further extensive documentation has been submitted.”
The council said: “Ceredigion county council stands by the professional judgment and findings of our staff in applying UK food hygiene standards. Inspections are carried out in line with national standards set by the Food Standards Agency.”